Recently, someone asked French-born Egbert Ausems if he misses his hometown of Strasbourg. 'No, I am not homesick,' was his firm answer. He was a little shocked himself, because: who doesn't feel homesick for their roots? According to Egbert, it is because of the many similarities between the two cities. And the French influences that can still be felt in Maastricht today. Let this Frenchman take you along the shreds of France.
From Alsace-to Maastricht
Egbert was born in Alsace and grew up in Strasbourg. After completing his Baccalauréat B, he decided to continue his studies in the Netherlands and ended up in Maastricht. He graduated Baccalaureus Translationis in 1998, met his great love here and continued to live in Maastricht. Nowadays, Egbert gives guided tours as Official Maastricht Guide at Maastricht Underground and Explore Maastricht. He also teaches French at a secondary school and runs his own catering company, Plat du Jour.
" I grew up as a burgundian and therefore feel at home in Maastricht. "
Egbert Ausems
A little history
Both Strasbourg and Maastricht originated as Roman settlements, each with a bridge across the river. Later, a castellum was added and both developed into Roman towns, and somewhat later into fortified towns. Towns of strategic importance. In the Middle Ages, Strasbourg, like Maastricht, was an important religious centre, with a bishop’s see. Maastricht has a basilica, whilst Strasbourg has an imposing cathedral. ‘And both cities have a river,’ adds Edgar. For the Rhine flows through the capital of Alsace. ‘Another similarity: good food and drink. I grew up in Alsace as a true bon vivant, which is why I also feel at home in Maastricht with its French flair.’
La Meuse
One such French shade is the river Meuse. Indeed, La Meuse has French origins, Egbert explains. The river originates in the Plateau de Langres, a high mountain range about 300 kilometres south of Strasbourg. After some wanderings, the water of the Meuse flows into the Netherlands via Maastricht. Since the Middle Ages, transport or supply via rivers has been important, he says: "Very interesting from a trade point of view the French thought.
Maastricht’s Beleg
The city of Maastricht and its Meuse were also of interest to the French from a strategic point of view. Not surprisingly, the French side fought hard to capture the city during the Siege of Maastricht in 1673. An important event in French history because Maastricht was in French hands for a long time, as the capital of a French state. 'After many attaques and croisades, the French succeed in taking Maastricht. Between 1794 and 1814, Maastricht is the capital of the Meuse Inférieure, i.e. a French city.'
D’Artagnan and Napoleon
D’Artagnan also fell in battle in Maastricht. The musketeer is regarded as the right-hand man of Louis XIV and as a national hero. He later became best known as one of the Four Musketeers thanks to Alexandre Dumas’s novel. As a French person, you therefore almost always come across the name Maastricht, as it forms part of your country’s history and the school curriculum.
With Napoleon’s arrival in Maastricht in 1803, French influence continued. Among other things, Napoleon visited the underground limestone quarries of St Pietersberg and inspected the fortifications. As a guide, Egbert still comes across traces of this today. ‘When you walk through the Grotten Zonneberg , you see many French inscriptions from that period. A silent witness to the past.’ At that time, the French also excavated the Mosasaurus Bèr from the ENCI quarry, a prehistoric marine creature whose skeleton can now be admired at the Natural History Museum.’
Even though the French troops have now left again, the French definitely left their mark on Maastricht. 'You can also see that in the Maastricht dialect, with its many words derived from French,' Egbert notes. So French was a main language until Maastricht became Dutch again. The Maastricht word versjèt (fork) comes from the French fourchette, and the word for candle, bougie, has even been copied one-to-one.
La cuisine
Just like Strasbourg, Maastricht has a typically Burgundian character. A Maastricht local knows how to enjoy life. French cuisine is therefore well represented in Maastricht. And Egbert has a few tips on that: ‘If you want to try typical French patisserie, Eclair Affair on Kesselskade is the place to go. I grew up on éclairs and believe me: they’re really good.’
But according to him, Maastricht is also the place to go for French specialities: ‘In that case, you’re best off heading to Koestraat’. There, he says, you’ll find restaurants serving ‘une cuisine délicieuse’, of which Le Fernand is an absolute must-visit. The menu features typical French dishes such as confit de canard, cuisses de grenouilles and haricots verts au beurre de Paris. Paired with a French drink such as a glass of crémant or Kronenbourg 1664.’
On the other side of the Meuse, at 't Wycker Cabinet, the Frenchman is also a regular. ‘There, I like to order the Côte de Bœuf, an Angus rib roast with sauce béarnaise. But you could also wake me up in the middle of the night for the moules de bouchots, the escargots and, above all, the profiteroles.’
't Wycker Cabinet
For breakfast, lunch and dinner, 't Wycker Cabinet is the place to be. With local products and a warm, homely atmosphere. More about 't Wycker Cabinet
If you like strolling like the Frenchman, stroll through the streets of the Stokstraat Quarter, with beautiful boutiques. If you want to soak up even more of the French feel, Egbert says you should walk along the city wall near the Stadspark: "It's just like Paris there. You walk through a beautiful garden and if you go back down via the School of Business and Economics, you can also see the statue of D'Artagnan along the city wall.' Also on top of the Mount Saint Peter (St. Pietersberg hill), at Fort Sint Pieter, you are 'silent witness to Maastricht's history and its history with the French.' But I don't tell more about it, you have to discover that for yourself.' Those who want to discover that can book a guided tour at Maastricht Underground; a particularly surprising recommendation.
If at the end of the day you're still not done with French life in Maastricht, you can still head to Lumière Cinema. There is always a French film playing there in this particularly beautifully refurbished factory hall. Already inspired to start practising your French? Then join the Café Français. Experience a fun and sociable evening where you can speak French. Look for the next meeting on the site of l'Alliance Française Maastricht, where by the way you will also find the cultural programme including excursions and wine tastings.
Lumière Cinema
With six screens and a cosy Grand Café, Lumière Cinema is the place to be for special films in Maastricht. More info on Lumière Cinema
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